Creating a kegerator
from a refrigerator isn’t difficult but it does require some planning.
You will have to make careful measurements and drill a few holes in
production, it is always better to take things slowly. Building
a kegerator is kind of a one time shot and understand exactly what you
plan on doing before you do it is important. Following the simple
process detailed below will ensure functional durable kegerator.
Know the Dimensions of Your Appliance:
1.) Measure Your Refrigerator If
the inside of your refrigerator does not allow for 30" of height, you
will probably have to use a low profile tap (allow 1/2 to 1 inch above
the barrel for a coupled low profile tap . These taps release the beer
at a 90-degree angle, rather than straight up, which saves above the
keg space. Another option is using a standard tap with a 90-degree
connector piece, this will decrease the height needed for a standard
tap by a couple of inches.
2.) Placing the Faucet Choosing
the proper faucet position is crucial to ensure the success of your
kegerator. For our "Low Cost" kegerator the measurements are 10 3/4
inches from either edge of the door (centered), and 4 1/2 inches down
from the top of
the door. Generally, the best place to install the faucet is the center
of the main refrigerator door. It is crucial for the shank whole to be
at least 6” below the freezer door to ensure the door will clear the
faucet handle. If the shank whole is drilled within 6 inches of the
bottome of the freezer door, when the user goes to open the freezer the
faucet will accidentally be turned on and beer will start flowing.
3.) Drilling the Shank Hole It is important that the plastic on the inside of the door where the shank is to be fitted is
flat.
Often on our kegerators we will put the black flange on the inside of
the door to disperse the pressure of the shank nut. For the black
flange allow 2 inches on either side of the center of the shank whole.
If the inside of your fridge door is unstable or broken you can drill a
whole in a small peice of wood and put the wood on the shank and
tighten the shank nut onto the outfitted wood. This will serve to
disperse the pressure of the shank nut over a greater area to provide
stability for the faucet.
I. A
7/8” drill bit is required to drill the shank hole.
II.
A paddle bit will work for one time use, but drilling through the door
will dull the bit. The more expensive forsner bits are generally much
better if you plan on using the bit more than one time.
III.Never
use a standard 7/8” drill bit. The whole will come out jagged and the
shank will not fit. Never force the drill bit. You are drilling metal,
it takes some time and patience. Let the bit do the work. Once you have
drilled clean through the metal door, always realign the bit with the
plastic inside to make sure it is aligned with the hole in the metal.
This will ensure the faucet is mounted straight.
4.) Kegerator Kit Assembly Install
the faucet onto the shank and tighten with the faucet wrench (red
handle wrench). Do this sliding the faucet onto the teeth on the shank
connection and begin threding the connector ban onto the faucet
threads'. Thread the shank through the 7/8" hole. The large, black
shank flange can be placed on either side of the shank to disperse some
of the pressure created by the tightended shank nut. Place the shank
nut onto the back of the shank. Once the shank tightens up on the door
use the facuet for leverage to tighten the shank nut onto the
refrigerator door.
Connecting Beer Line Use
a neoprene washer for all beer line conncetions. With a washer inside
of the beer hex nut tighten the nut onto the back of the shank. Next,
with a washer inside of the other hex nut tighten the nut onto the top
of your tap. The tap may have a blue cap covering the beer connection.
Co2 Line and co2 Regulator Installation
Place both of the adjustable clamps on the co2 line. Slide one end of the
line over the co2 input tailpeice on the side of the beer tap. The
tailpeice is at a 45 degree going into the tap opposite the handle. Use
an adjustable clamp to secure this connection by sliding the clamp over the
tailpeice and line and tightening the clamp. Place the other end of the
co2 line onto the co2 output nipple located on the co2 regulator. Use the other
adjustable clamp to secure this connection.
Connecting the co2 regulator and co2 cylinder is
simple. First place the red co2 washer inside the hex nut on co2
regulator. Tighten the female hex-nut on the co2 regulator to the
threaded male connection on the co2 tank. Make sure the connection is tight, as
air can escape if the two pieces are not flush together. The plastic
washer is key to the ensure no gas can leak from the connection.
On the co2 regulator the shutoff valve is the nipple
that the line is connected to, on the valve is a red lever. This red
lever is the shutoff valve for the entire system. Make sure the
valve is turned off by positioning it perpendicular to the
line. Open the co2 twist valve on the top of the co2 cylinder, and listen
to see if any air is leaking from the connection. Once the tank is open
with no leakage the red shut off valve is the only valve you need to use.
You do not need to close the tank with twist handle on the tank once the system
is hooked up.
