Chest Freezer Kegerator

How to build a kegerator out of a chest freezer.........

Chest freezers have high insulation ratings, they are the most economical way to store a keg and dispense draft beer. Once everything inside the chest freezer has been cooled to the desired set temperature, the temperature regulator will shut the electricity off to the appliance. The construction and production of a kegerator out of a chest freezer is a bit more difficult than building a standard kegerator. Following these instructions will ensure your success building a flawless kegerator.

The most important questions to consider are

• Will a Keg Fit?
• Will the Co2 Tank Fit?
• Where to install the draft arm tower?

1.) Installing The Temperature Controller

The temperature controller is an electrical override system. The controller monitors the freezers’ temperature with a thermometer. It shuts the electricity to the appliance off when the thermometer reaches a certain temperature.

There are two options for installation:

I. The first, and far simpler method is to run the thermometer up the backside of the appliance, and bend the metal thermometer to fit inside the appliance. You can secure the thermometer with adhesive tape or caulk.

II. The second method consists of drilling a hole through the compressor compartment. Use a ˝ inch drill bit, this is the exact size of the thermometer. Ding dent in the metal so the drill bit doesn’t “walk” around the area you are trying to drill. It is important to only drill through the compressor compartment, because drilling through a freezers’ wall runs the risk of damaging the cooling/heating coils. The heating coils are on the outside of the appliance while the cooling coils are the inside of the appliance walls. The compressor transfers the heat from the inside of the appliance to the outside of the appliance with these coils. If these coils are destroyed, your freezer won’t work anymore, so be careful. It’s a one time shot on drilling from the outside to the inside of the appliance. When drilling through the compressor compartment, make sure you choose a space that is at least 6” from the floor of the appliance. This will allow enough room to bend the thermometer down.

III. Once you have found a viable spot on the outside of the compartment, use a screwdriver to “punch” a small dent in the metal. This will not only mark a position but also prevent your drill bit from “walking” around when you begin to start the hole. Once you have made a dent, use a forsner or standard drill bit and begin making a hole.

IV. Once you have punctured the exterior metal, gently push the bit through the insulation. If you feel any amount of heavy pressure or resistance, back the drill bit up, relocate and begin the process again. If your bit is met with only slight resistance, continue to drill through the insulation and interior metal. Once the hole has been drilled, place the thermometer end of the temperature controller through the hole.

V. Secure the thermometer with fasteners for running co-axle cable wire. You can purchase these fasteners at any hardware store.

VI. Fill any remaining space in the hole with spray insulation or some form of foam insulating caulk. Standard caulk can be used, just as long the freezer is sealed around thermometer wire.

VII. Secure the temperature controller with Velcro or screws on the outside of the freezer. Sometimes it is best to put the controller inside of the compressor compartment. It is not imperative to mount the controller.

VIII. Plug the chest freezer into the temperature controller plug. Set the temperature dial to the temperature you wish to store your beer. Beer freezes at about 28 degrees Fahrenheit, a temperature around 32 degrees Fahrenheit is recommended. The temperature regulator has a 4-degree variance. This means the appliance will be shut off at your set temperature, once the inside of the appliance is 4 degrees above the set temperature the regulator will restore electricity to the appliance.

IX. Finally, use plastic cinch ties or adhesive tape to bind the cords together.

2.) Installing The Draft Arm Tower

Mount the draft arm tower on the top opening chest freezer door. There is no cooling or heating coils in the door so do not be concerned about puncturing the coils. Do however be careful of the wire and the light in the door.

I. Begin by finding the center of the freezer top, or wherever you prefer to have the tower located. Once you have selected a space open the door to make sure it is not above a light, or anything else that may be damaged during the installation process. Once you have deemed the space safe and suitable, use a circular saw to cut a 1-3” circular hole through the top of the metal on the outside of the door.

II. Place the tower over the hole. Use a pencil to mark the screw holes in the base of the draft arm tower.

III. Remove the tower.

IV. Using a power drill, insert the self-piercing screws provided in the kit where the pencil marks are. Once all four screws have been inserted, gently back the screws out of the holes. Align the black washer’s holes over the screw holes then put the beer line through the main hole. Place the draft arm tower’s holes over the washers’ holes. Reinsert the screws with a hand held screwdriver. Do not over tighten as the screws may strip the threads created by the screws.

V. Place the beer faucet vertically on the teeth of the beer shank. Make sure the faucet is on straight (vertical). Tighten the coupling nut onto the back of the faucet using the faucet wrench.

3.) Installing The Drip Tray

I. Remove the plastic cover from the self-adhering Velcro.

II. Line the drip tray up to the faucet, common sense on this installation.

Connecting Beer Line

Use a neoprene washer for all beer line connections. With a washer inside of the beer hex nut tighten the nut onto the back of the shank. Next, with a washer inside of the other hex nut tighten the nut onto the top of your tap. The tap may have a blue cap covering the beer connection.

Co2 Line and co2 Regulator Installation

Place both of the adjustable clamps on the co2 line. Slide one end of the line over the co2 input tailpeice on the side of the beer tap. The tailpeice is at a 45 degree going into the tap opposite the handle. Use an adjustable clamp to secure this connection by sliding the clamp over the tailpeice and line and tightening the clamp. Place the other end of the co2 line onto the co2 output nipple located on the co2 regulator. Use the other adjustable clamp to secure this connection.

Connecting the co2 regulator and co2 cylinder is simple. First place the red co2 washer inside the hex nut on co2 regulator. Tighten the female hex-nut on the co2 regulator to the threaded male connection on the co2 tank. Make sure the connection is tight, as air can escape if the two pieces are not flush together. The plastic washer is key to the ensure no gas can leak from the connection.

On the co2 regulator the shutoff valve is the nipple that the line is connected to, on the valve is a red lever. This red lever is the shutoff valve for the entire system. Make sure the valve is turned off by positioning it perpendicular to the line. Open the co2 twist valve on the top of the co2 cylinder, and listen to see if any air is leaking from the connection. Once the tank is open with no leakage the red shut off valve is the only valve you need to use. You do not need to close the tank with twist handle on the tank once the system is hooked up.